Stories about the “two faces of China” and the separate universes in which they exist are now so plentiful most us skip them over – we know the scene too well. Last week’s breakdown of the transportation system in the wake of record snowstorms , however, brought the story back into the public eye with the vivid poignancy that only a photograph can. There were the swelling masses surrounding the train stations, the poor workers who have only a few days every year to be with their families, and poor Wen Jiaobao with his bullhorn, the guy the party always trots out when the masses need to be soothed.
One Beijing reporter writes today of the international consequences of this circus – of how it gives the world a picture of China that is the exact opposite of what China wants the world to think.
While the generals dined in London, the poor bloody infantry were in the Guangzhou trenches.
For them, those station platforms were evidence of the shameful fact that China is still, at heart, a fragile country, one whose political and business leaders can engineer the occasional victory to impress foreigners but find it hard to respond to the needs of the struggling billions at home.
While the weather was the worst in 50 years, I was surprised at the number of people for whom snow on the line washed no better as an excuse in Shanghai than in Surrey. The railways being state-run (and so is Chinalco, by the way), their failure was a failure of government.
In many ways, they are correct in seeing China in this light, and the desperation on the faces of those crowds, or the fate of Mrs Chu Hongling, who gave birth after spending three days in a snow-bound bus on a motorway, are a warning of the hubris that can befall any nation that is told too often that it represents the end of history.
A trillion dollars it may have in foreign exchange reserves, but the Middle Kingdom remains an unequal and fragmented society, still traumatised by war, famine and revolution, and still led by a government that is opaque, often unresponsive, and in many ways self-serving.
I wish I had a copy of some of the CCTV footage I saw last week. Most unforgettable was a clip of old men shoveling snow in front of a train station with Wen Jiaobao standing nearby. All of the four or five men were beaming with joy, flashing these shit-eating grins at the camera, looking just like those old drawings of Lei Feng grinning ear to ear as he darns soldiers’ socks in the night. “We are happy to serve our parts as cogs n the great socialist machine!” The reality was grim and dark, but the picture China was putting out to the world was all sweetness and light. It was obviously choreographed and totally artificial, but so are all their propaganda efforts.
Take a look at Spencer’s article. He cleverly draws a parallel between how China handled the storms and how it handled the secret corporate raid yesterday of Rio Tinto, the Australian mining company.
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